On Saturday I found the time to make the pattern for the dress – but I couldn’t bring myself to really starting to cut up the fabric…
When I woke up the next morning, I suddenly had the question in mind, how the two Layers were treated – were they, as you would do it today, sown separately with the seam allowances in between or together, the colour of the outer layer showing as on the brown one on this page, or some other way? Good that I thought of this before cutting, as I would cut the seam allowances accordingly…
I looked through all my pictures and didn’t find an example of the colour of the outer layer showing in seam allowances on any of the lifted skirts that I found, so that I came to the following conclusion: I’ll sew both layers as one and use the flat felling technique – but I won’t divide the seam allowances and stitch them down respectively, I will just fold them over to one side and by sowing so the lining will lay on top and the green of the outer layer won’t show. I tried the hole thing on a test seam and this is, what it looks like:
In the top pic you can see the colours nicely.
The middle one is a closeup of the seam – the green stitches are about 2 to 3 mm in length; for the actual dress I want to use a little shorter ones if possible. Here I used backstitch, which I will use at the top of the dress and at all the points, where a lot of stress will come onto the seam/ where I want it a little stronger, like at the top of gores.
In the bottom you see a diagram of the way I made the seam – I always find diagrams much easier to understand than the explanation (like the one I gave above 😉 ).
So I decided, to cut all the pattern pieces with a seam allowance of 2cm, wich will make it easier in sewing together, because I won’t need to look at the lines but just align the edges and sew along. After sewing the actual seam, I’ll cut of three of the layers to 1 cm and fold the remaining long one around, stitching this one to the fabric of the lining.
The fabric is only 110 cm wide, which is much closer to the average width of the medieval cloth than the 150cm that you usually get, so that I could just use the whole width of the silk, without having to think about too wide pieces in the pattern. As I always try to think and plan the way I would have, had I lived in the time in question, I used the space that appeared between the front and back part of the pattern to make one more gore, so that I will use up all the fabric and have some more width in the skirt – the only thing I’m a little concerned about with this one is, that it is cut diagonaly and might tend to strech…however, it is not very wide (40 cm at the bottom) and I think it will be ok.
For the Layout of the other pattern pieces I tried to use the edge of the fabric as much as possible, to use the form stability this will give – at the center back and the center front seam, the latter also being the edge of the V-Neck, so that that won’t stretch. As soon, as I have a proper sketch of the layout and pattern, I’ll post it here 🙂
Basicaly, the pattern consists of two front pieces, witch have some additional width in front, because the V-Neck line continues into the front seam, two back pieces, witch just go straight down in the center back, two center back gores witch will be set in at the hight of the belt and one enter back witch will be set between those two gores a little further down, as that one is a little shorter, because it is cut across the width of the fabric. The dress will have a slight train in the back; just enough to lie on the floor, but only just trail behind; I put an extra length of about 15 cm in at the back.