The Burgundian Gown was worn over at least to other layers: The Chemise and the Kirtle. The Chemise is what you could call under-dress, as the Kirtle could also worn without the Gown covering it; it seems this was the everyday/ home dress and the Gown was worn over it, for warmth and style.
The Kirtle was a fitted, short-sleeved dress with a lacing at the front or the side. There seem to have been as many pattern designs for it as there are pictures of it – with or without waist seem, if there was one the skirt attached with or without folds, princess seams without waistseem (thats a 6 panel dress) plus front lacing, no seems whatsoever in the front part and side lacing; wide, open lacing or nearly invisible when closed.
More on this later, as I’ll first make the Gown and didn’t do much research on the Kirtle yet.