The arm doesn’t fit! Oh, it does…

After one side-seam to try the sewing by hand on the real dress, I did the one arm I had already cut out and when I tried it on, it didn’t fit! And I had already done all the cutting of the seam allowances and flat felling of them, so that it would have been difficult to change them… But then I remembered, that I didn’t yet put in the gore that was to go into the uppermost 10 cm of the arm 😉 so the whole thing was all right, as the lower bit of the arm was already fitting perfectly.

 

As I had planned, I now used a smaller length for the stitches – they are about 1 to 2 mm long. I mainly used running stitch and every 10 cm or so I used backstitch for about 2 cm, so that even should th thread break, it would not leave a big whole. I think the 10 cm are more than enough though; on the next seams of the skirt I’ll use much less, because I do not think it that necessary and it will take less time.

On the Arm I used the backstitch for reinforcement around the wrist, witch is narrow and gets some strain when I put on the dress, on the elbow and the Armpit/ back of the arm, as the seam runs behind and not under the arm.

Beginning the Burgundian Dress…

On Saturday I found the time to make the pattern for the dress – but I couldn’t bring myself to really starting to cut up the fabric…

When I woke up the next morning, I suddenly had the question in mind, how the two Layers were treated – were they, as you would do it today, sown separately with the seam allowances in between or together, the colour of the outer layer showing as on the brown one on this page, or some other way? Good that I thought of this before cutting, as I would cut the seam allowances accordingly…

I looked through all my pictures and didn’t find an example of the colour of the outer layer showing in seam allowances on any of the lifted skirts that I found, so that I came to the following conclusion: I’ll sew both layers as one and use the flat felling technique – but I won’t divide the seam allowances and stitch them down respectively, I will just fold them over to one side and by sowing so the lining will lay on top and the green of the outer layer won’t show. I tried the hole thing on a test seam and this is, what it looks like:

Probenaht In the top pic you can see the colours nicely.

The middle one is a closeup of the seam – the green stitches are about 2 to 3 mm in length; for the actual dress I want to use a little shorter ones if possible. Here I used backstitch, which I will use at the top of the dress and at all the points, where a lot of stress will come onto the seam/ where I want it a little stronger, like at the top of gores.

In the bottom you see a diagram of the way I made the seam – I always find diagrams much easier to understand than the explanation (like the one I gave above 😉 ).

 

So I decided, to cut all the pattern pieces with a seam allowance of 2cm, wich will make it easier in sewing together, because I won’t need to look at the lines but just align the edges and sew along. After sewing the actual seam, I’ll cut of three of the layers to 1 cm and fold the remaining long one around, stitching this one to the fabric of the lining.

 

The fabric is only 110 cm wide, which is much closer to the average width of the medieval cloth than the 150cm that you usually get, so that I could just use the whole width of the silk, without having to think about too wide pieces in the pattern. As I always try to think and plan the way I would have, had I lived in the time in question, I used the space that appeared between the front and back part of the pattern to make one more gore, so that I will use up all the fabric and have some more width in the skirt – the only thing I’m a little concerned about with this one is, that it is cut diagonaly and might tend to strech…however, it is not very wide (40 cm at the bottom) and I think it will be ok.

 

For the Layout of the other pattern pieces I tried to use the edge of the fabric as much as possible, to use the form stability this will give – at the center back and the center front seam, the latter also being the edge of the V-Neck, so that that won’t stretch. As soon, as I have a proper sketch of the layout and pattern, I’ll post it here 🙂

Basicaly, the pattern consists of two front pieces, witch have some additional width in front, because the V-Neck line continues into the front seam, two back pieces, witch just go straight down in the center back, two center back gores witch will be set in at the hight of the belt and one enter back witch will be set between those two gores a little further down, as that one is a little shorter, because it is cut across the width of the fabric. The dress will have a slight train in the back; just enough to lie on the floor, but only just trail behind; I put an extra length of about 15 cm in at the back.

Mehndi

As I am in India at the moment, I couldn’t ignore Mehndi as a great tool for creativity 🙂 Mehndi is the design you draw upon the Hands, Arms or Feet with paste made from henna. I often practise by just outlining my hand on some paper and drawing the design in there. The last design I did on my own hand is the following:

IMAG0942Unfortunately I didn’t take any pictures last time I spend an afternoon drawing Mehndi for everyone, but next week there will be some celebration in the school and some of the girls already asked if I could draw some Mehndi for them just before, so I’ll get you some more pictures then 🙂 The girls in the school just like my Mehndi very much *happy*

But for now I’ll show you some of the designs I did on paper:

IMAG1049

Babyset finished :)

I finally finished the Jacket for my new little cousin 🙂 Because of the raspberry design on the body and the arms it had taken me quite long, but now it is all finished, the seams are closed and all the lose ends of threads are sewn in. I think, all in all, knitting things for Babies is still more fun, than a sweater for an adult, because it is so much more quick to finish 🙂 (ok, admittedly, it really depends on the design and the thickness of the yarn…)

 

I don’t have any Buttons here with me at the moment, so my mother will have to add them, when she comes visiting in a month and takes it back to Germany to my uncle.

 

And here a picture of the finished set:IMAG1045

 

I used only 220g of the wool, instead of the 350g they approximated in the instuctions; so now my uncle can decide, if he wants something else to go with the set, a second jacket, or whatever out of the leftover wool 🙂

Lazy?! Some nearly finished stuff

Sorry, I didn’t post anything for some time… But the Jacket for my little cousin took some time, as the design slows you down a bit in your knitting speed. But that wasn’t the only problem – because the knitted bit was only growing slowly, I fear I lost my enthusiasm a little and didn’t knit as often/ as long each as I could have…

But now at least the design part is finished (body and arms), and of the shoulders I already finished half yesterday 🙂 That part goes so much faster.

But I also nearly finished the Harpcase! I sewed the parts of the outer Layer and the lining together respectively; I still don’t have a fabric for the padding, so that I just made two separate bags that are to be connected, when the padding is in between at the whole top seam.

I was happy, that the harp actually did fit in, as it had been difficult to make a pattern for it, because all the edges are slanting in a different directions, so that the main planes of the case are somewhat twisted… (The top edge going steep down, the bottom edge coming slightly up and somewhat to the outside)